Last year, I was sick and stuck in the usual routine: rest, water, and lots of tissues. 

Somewhere between reaching for the box and staring at my dolls on the shelf, I thought, why don’t they have tissue boxes too?

That’s how these tiny tissue boxes happened.

Anna is usually pretty healthy, but she likes to be prepared.

She’s stocking up for her siblings who get the sniffles now and then. Very responsible of her, honestly.

Tiny everyday details like this help bring the dolls' world to life

That's why I've been hard at work, and now I'm able to present to you:

DDsiggen - Tierparkzone's Forum Signature Generator

A standalone program to turn your favourite doll photos into images for your forum signature.

<GitHub Link>

The program offers all the functionality of my old script, including all extra features I described later in that thread plus a lot more.
It further adds a graphical interface and many quality of life improvements.
All features that I deem necessary are finally implemented as of ver.2.09.
However, I plan to keep adding some extra functionality / customization options in the future.

Features:
Two modes are currently available.

Quick Sig:
Generate a signature from multiple photos with only a few clicks.

• Batch import photos from the working directory and reorder them
• Arrange photos into one or two signature images, while keeping their size as large as possible
• Select one of the provided alpha masks
• Export the final signature image(s)

Create new:
Generate a signature with custom text and additional options.

• Set the preferred aspect ratio for your photos
• Batch import photos from the working directory
• Import photos one by one from anywhere on your computer or from the web
• Batch import photos from your Doll Directory entries
• Manually adjust the crop for individual photos or for groups of photos at once
• Add or import up to two text layers ("name" and "epithet") that will get applied to the photos
• Reorder photos and text as desired
• Select one of the provided alpha masks
• Customize text font, colors and positions for each text layer (you can also use your own font files)
• Apply shadow and/or glow effects to the text layers
• Choose how the photos will be arranged in the signature image(s) or leave it to the program
• Export the final signature image(s) in multiple resolutions

For Windows users:

• Download "DDsiggen_<version#>_win.zip" and use the Windows executable (.exe) inside.

For Linux users:

• Download "DDsiggen_<version#>_linux.zip" and use the Linux executable (no file extension) inside.
• Alternatively, download "DDsiggen_<version#>_win.zip". The Windows executable (.exe) inside should run without issue under Wine.

For Mac users:

• Download "DDsiggen_<version#>_mac.zip" and use the Mac x64 executable (no file extension) inside.
• The Mac version is packaged for Intel CPU Macs, users with an Apple Silicon CPU Mac should be able to run the program with Rosetta2 (untested).
• If you have Wine installed on your Mac, download "DDsiggen_<version#>_win.zip". The Windows executable (.exe) inside should run under Wine on Mac.

Run directly in Python (any OS):

• Download the Source code and run "DDsiggen.py" in Python
• Requires an installation of Python on your system as well as some additional python packages (check the README.txt for details)

How to use - Preparation (any OS):

• Extract the contents of the downloaded ZIP file
• (Optional but recommended) Copy the doll photos you want to use in your signature into the same folder as the extracted files (see image below)
• (Optional) You can enter your dolls' names into the "names.txt" and "epithets.txt" files
• (Optional) You can copy additional fonts into the "fonts" folder
• (Optional) You can paste the links to your dolls' doll directory pages into the "doll_directory.txt" file
  

How to use - Windows:

• Run "DDsiggen_<version#>.exe" by double clicking
  • On first launch, you will get the warning shown in the images below, since Windows does not know this program
  • You can click on "More info", then "Run anyway" to start the program
    
• A terminal window will open
• Shortly afterward, your browser will open a new tab displaying the program's UI
  • On first launch, you may get a firewall alert
  • Denying the communication request will not impact use with local photos (only import from the web)
• Once the program is ready, it should look similar to this:
  

How to use - Mac:

• Run "DDsiggen_<version#>" by double clicking
  • More recent MacOS versions may require you to right-click -> "Run" or "Run in Terminal" instead
  • I have limited capability to test the Mac version - please report here or on GitHub if you have issues running it
• A terminal window will open
  • The terminal may appear to be stuck for several seconds before the program starts up properly
• After a few seconds, your browser will open a new tab displaying the program's UI
  • On first launch, you may get a firewall alert
  • Denying the communication request will not impact use with local photos (only import from the web)

How to use - Linux:

• Run "DDsiggen_<version#>" by double clicking
  • Depending on your distro you may have to use right-click -> "Run" or "Run in Terminal" instead
• A terminal window will open
• After a few seconds, your browser will open a new tab displaying the program's UI

How to use - In general (any OS):

• Once the program shows in your browser, follow the instructions to generate your signature images
• You can use either "Quick Sig" or "Create New"
• Use Quick Sig if you don't need text or any detailed options
  
• Use Create New for maximum customization
  
• Exported signature images can be found in the "signatures" subfolder
• How to exit:
  • If you use any of the "Exit Application" buttons in the program, the terminal window will close automatically. You may now close the browser tab.
  • Closing the terminal window will terminate the program and your browser will display a "Connection lost" message. You may now close the browser tab.
  • Simply closing your browser tab will not terminate the program! (By reopening the tab you may continue where you left off.) Close the terminal window to fully terminate the program.
  • If you terminate the program in any other way than using the "Exit Application" buttons, some temporary files may remain in a "tmp" subfolder. These will get overwritten/cleared the next time you run the program.

Examples:

Here are a few sample signatures created with DDsiggen.

If you don't need any text, you can use "Quick Sig":

With "Create New" you can get creative with text:

Japanese names are possible, too:

Why not both?

Go with the style that I'm currently using (you'll need your own fonts for this):

Or give it your personal twist:

You can add other text, not just names:

You can also export the sub-images individually at 200px x 200px resolution to create something like character badges:
        

Here's a test signature with 1000 photos:

This takes about 20 minutes to generate and 15 Gigs of RAM. Is it possible? - Yes! Is it worth it? - Probably not.

So, go have fun with your doll photos and create some awesome signatures. 😁 And if you do so, why not show 'em off here?

Feel free to let me know about any issues you might encounter and I'll try to help you get this running.

You can also post ideas for additional features, but I cannot promise I'll be able to implement them.
 

I am using some power-tools in this project in a slightly creative manner, this can get yourself hurt if things go wrong.

As a daytime job I work with similar equipment on a larger scale, so I know that you can lose a finger or two if things happen to go wrong.

Protection and security is key, if your workbench wobbles, dont do it, if you cant secure either the tools, or workpiece securely things can go wrong.

What is a Kantele in the first place?

A Kantele is a traditional instrument dating back several hundreds of years, and actually holds a interesting place in old official finnish mythology, and as such is also the national instrument for us.

The basic idea of it is to marry a guitar with a harp, but the key feature of a kantele is the straight steel strings (not wound), that make a very metallic sound, resulting in a almost music box like effect.

(She's playing it at a rather slow tempo, but I like this a lot more, as it gives a much more mythical sensation to it, than the actual tempo as heard here.).

There are several kinds of katele available, starting from the 5-string school version, that is the most basic of instruments in the family, up to the ultra modern 39-stringed concert models that are hideously expensive as I found out while doing some minor research.

I decided to try and make a miniature modern version, eventhough I could have gone to my grandpa's place to take photos of an actual century old multi stringed one, thats a lot more boxy in construction.

Phase.1: The Prototype.

This is the first rough attempt to see is it even possible to make this with as little expense as possible.

If you dont count in tools (I need them for almost everyday stuff too) the price for this including everything was set to 10 euros, where the bulk of the cost went into the pine board.

Scaling it.

I havent seen a concert kantele in person so I have no idea how big it actually should be, but judging from photos and videos the body of the instrument should be roughly as wide as the players arm is long.

Taking a wikipedia picture, and making some guesswork, I resized it in elements so the printed product should be roughly the size I wanted, and the first try gave a close enough result to being work.

Yonkko with the printed image, size is just about right considering reference material I've seen compared to the players hands

Making the body.

Time to bring out the power tools.

What I planned to use on making the body were a hand router, belt-sander, and jigsaw. I also ended up using my table saw to trim down one half of the body, but I think there could have been better options

It all starts out by tracing the edges of the instrument halves on the pine board.

(See the mistake I did here?)

then I traced in a roughly 5mm inner line where I would be carving out material with my router.

After the material has been carved away from the halves, its time to take the jigsaw and remove them from the board.

this is where I noticed my little fumble, and did the proper mirror image half, but the extra half came in very handy lateron.

Now that the two halves are ready, I decided to slim down the halves a little with my table saw. I think for future attempts I'll probably step them down with the router, or use a big piece of sandpaper to sand them down, as a slightly more safe procedure.

while the two were still apart I drilled (or grinded would be more accurate) the hole on the cover piece.

after that, it was time to glue the two halves together.

After the glue had dried, it was only a matter of sanding the rough edges so the two were alike.

To do this I bolted my belt sander upside down on my work table.

and so the body was complete.

Trimmings.

Remember that extra piece I had made? I decided to make the step on the tuning edge of the strings out of it.

same procedure as before, although sanding the inner edge into its final shape before glueing it into place.

Piece of the thinned pine board with the rough drawing of the shape Im after.

being glued into place.

With the outer edge sanded down to the body

Stringing it.

for this prototype I didnt want to invest in fancy hardware just yet, so in the end I opted for 0,5mm wire, and threadnails that cost about 3-4 euros in total.

Measuring up the places for the nails is simple enough as long as you remember to use the long straight edge as a reference point.

The fixed end should be at a slight angle, and the tuning edge nails should be about in the middle of the step that was put in earlier which I quite hilariously failed... but...

First two strings attached

The tiny cutters I used for the job. The trick was to use enough force to be able to pull the string without cutting it.

I actually fumbled again, apparently getting mixed up while measuring up the tuning edge nail spots, and ending up with one straight edge nail more than the tuning edge, but reversing the winding side near the end of the narrow end gave a acceptable result.

All strings attached. Not great, but for a first attempt not too shabby I think.

Covering up the the evidence.

Basicly at this point the thing is ready to go, and it actually works ... ish.

But I wanted to make the cover for the straight edge as seen on the concert instruments, so it was out with the router again to make a step in a piece of pine board. making a rough cut again, and sanding the edge to desired lenght.

Fabricated stepped piece for the cover.

Rough shape cut out of the fabricated piece.

The only thing left is to glue it into place.

With the final sanding of getting the coverpiece to meet flush with the body, a quick vacbleep, and its ready for its debut.

After-thaughts:

Despite a minor crack that appeared between the string cover and body after sanding it down, Im actually impressed with the result eventhough I say so myself.

Im sort of astonished how light it ended up beeing, a direct result of hollowing out the two halves of the body. It feels light in a uncanny way.

I didnt expect to hear any sort of tune out of it, but while the metal strings were still under tension (since they are only wound without any kind of locking they tend to unwind as you work, or pluck on it), it gave out a satisfying and on occasion surprisingly low sound.

Improvements for future versions would include better looking hardware, and adding a reinforcement for the straight edge of the strings, since the nails started to bend as I wound up the strings too tight.

I'm tempted to use this photo in holiday emails with the caption "Not a creature was stirring..."

I like painting and customizing my dolls and practice makes perfect, but I'm more adept with digital painting. Also knowing both sides are perfectly matched will save me from staring at a freshly painted doll for 10 hours, just looking for a miniscule difference.

I used the patterns from a Dollybird magazine and tried to adjust the measurements so it would fit Naru-rin but she's quite big so it was difficult to make it fit 

I'm still happy how it turned out and will get started on some matching underwear!

Actually, with the semi real head, I don't hate it. The proportions are a little off, but it was a fun project. And I still have enough floating heads for a few tries 😉 

The Mirai head looks off, though 🙈

A few months ago I made the doll social media gadget thing as seen with Ciel below. The how-to YouTube video bombed and the gadget never really worked properly due to Ciel and I having a fairly limited knowledge of C++.

For years I've been planning to make a mobile phone app. Despite knowing nothing about app development it was actually my first task in my new job 😲.

To try and learn more of this brave new world Uzuki and I have started building an app for dolls (and maybe their human owners too). This one is written in C# and SQL, of which I have decades of experience.

There are a few collector type apps in the app store but this one will be aimed specifically at dolls. Although if it's successful we might turn it into something for pet owners or general collectors of stuff.

Alas it will be Android only to start with, not because we can't make an iPhone app but because Apple's policies are just so restrictive compared to Google.

Well hopefully it will make it into the Play Store. Watch this space...

Also let me know if you can think of anything useful to put in it. Right now we're putting plenty of unuseful stuff in 😁. But the best feature so far is having a list of your dolls' birthdays.

Fun fact: these are 18 inches long. That's the size of a whole MSD! And around shoulder height to a Smart Doll. I made the middle sword a couple nights ago. It has a wire core that I decided was a bit too flexible. So last night I made another sword (far right) using a wooden dowel, and wish I had kinda stopped in the middle because I decided it looks much too wide now. So basically I wasted my time because I prefer the look of the first one. Welp. Anyway the sheathed "sword" is on the left there and most likely what she'll have most of the time anyway. I'll use Angelus paint since it's flexible and hopefully won't crack if the sword bends a little. That was my main concern with it. But also that I hope it looks ok in pictures being a bit wonky as I can't seem to fully keep it straight. I may make yet another with a sturdier wire down the line, but for now it's fine, and I just want to move on.

Aside from those, I made hats!

If you're a One Piece fan, you probably know exactly who she's going to be at this point.

I'm waiting on her pants now, because I hate making pants. But now i'll focus on making her some tops and jackets. I'm trying not to be a perfectionist about things and just have fun.

Will update when the sword/scabbard are painted, and also with the tops i make.

It would be for one of these little guys, so we are talking roughly 1/12 scale with a 1/6 head size.

I don't have (or want to) do anything to test this with yet, but I do have tattoo designs one could put.

I have a project in mind I’m really wanting to do, but I think it would require custom fabric. I’m wanting the pattern from Sailor Moon’s comforter/bed set and I can’t find that anywhere I can buy. I’ve seen blankets with it, but not in fabric I can use to make my own things. Does anyone have any recommendations on where would be the best place to get custom fabric like this? Thank you in advanced!

I posted this in another thread earlier, but figured I should also make a top-level post for visibility.

I recently made a doll website that offers a few tools that I hope people may find handy. It has doll size data and doll magazine pattern data* stored, and offers the following features:

* Unfortunately, I was only able to list data from books I own so it's woefully incomplete. I'll keep adding to it as I accumulate more books though! I also only added dolls that were in the magazines or that I could remember off the top of my head, so the doll list will always need new additions. Please post anything you want added in this thread, or DM me here or on Discord (I'm Raff on the DD Discord).

Doll Utilities

Pattern/Book Utilities:

Short Term To Do List:

Long-Term To Do List:

This is my first non-school-related fullstack project, and my first-ever JavaScript/Node/React project (we used Flask in school so I wanted to learn a more common stack) so please let me know if you notice any errors or have any suggestions! It may be slow to load initially because I'm on my hosting platform's hobby plan and they suspend the site when it isn't active to keep costs down, but it should perform at a decent speed once everything has loaded once.

If you want a doll added to the database, please feel free to DM me the measurements (height, bust, waist and hip measurements) so I can add it.

I was asked about this over Discord, so I'm also going to post it here for clarity: The patterns themselves are not and never will be posted on this website. I do not have those scanned and I will not distribute them, even if you DM me. I do not own the rights to them and I am not looking to get in trouble over this. This is strictly a convenience tool that I made because I wanted something like this (especially the "similar" functionality because I love DDPs but God knows they're kind of a pain to dress lol) and couldn't find anything like it already available.

I've had this 1/6 scale set of chaise lounge, footstool/ottoman, and armchair for years. I originally got them for my old Monster High and Pureneemo dolls way back, and they're actually jewelry boxes, so they open at a back hinge.

Ever since I got into BJD and Dollfie Dreams I've been more into larger dolls, so I can't use these anymore, but I love the style.
Thus, I've decided to recreate them in DD scale myself!

My first project will focus on the chaise lounge / sofa.

I won't be using the same fabric, but I'm going to try and make the shapes and construct as similar as possible, just in a much larger scale.

This meant I had to do a lot of math... Not hard math, just a lot of it.

I wanted to be really precise, so I took as many measurements as possible. Then all I had to do was convert all of these to 1/3 scale. I could have done the math by hand but I'm lazy so I used a converter tool online.

I also took careful note of how each of the pieces was put together, as well as I could see. I was actually really surprised at how some of the pieces came together, as I hadn't really looked closely at them before. It's basically almost all cardstock of various thickness, covered in fabric and layered. Only the seat and backrest puff seem to be actually stuffed with anything.

I didn't want to dedicate too much effort without knowing if the new measurements would work, especially since the lounge wasn't originally in perfect 1/6 scale and my 10% upscale was just me guessing. So I decided to make a mock-up of the important parts!

I used cardboard -- finally had a use for all those shipping boxes I saved!! -- and cut out and taped together the baseboard and seat section pieces, as well as a rectangle for where the arm of the chair would be. I was honestly really surprised at how stiff and sturdy it felt even just with these "cheap materials". It didn't even have as many layers as the final would!

The Stuff I Actually Worked on Today:

The proportions ended up being really odd, so I took some advice from the replies to my post on DoA and adjusted some things, namely checking my doll's seated measurements and making the seat narrower.
I measured her thighs first and used that as a guide to guess two possible death depths, which I marked on the original mock-up.

Then I sat her down on it while it was placed on a box for height. At a fully pushed back seating position, 16cm seat depth seemed to be the best choice.

Incidentally, the height of the mock-up on the box was actually perfect for her seating height too, so I measured the distance from the seat to the table, which was also 16cm. This would be the total seat height, which includes all the baseboards, the seat while stuffed, and the chair legs.
I checked the added up measurements I currently had, and those were only 14cm total. I'm planning to also bevel the edges of the insert foam but I'm not 100% sure it will go well.

The foam I have is 2.7cm thick and squishes down to approx 2cm. I'd consider it a "working height" of 2.3 to 2.5 cm then, since I don't think a doll will compress the foam as much as me squishing it at max strength with my fingers would.
I adjusted my measurements to accommodate the foam, so the seat's total height from the floor becomes 16.4cm, which allows for the cushion to potentially squish as far as 16cm.

Second Attempt At Mock-up (50%-ish progress)
Next I decided that I might as well make a full mock-up of everything since I was having so many issues with scale.

I worked on the backboard main piece for a while. It was difficult to adjust the measurements and then accurately draw the shape. It was originally too short, and then too tall. I think I might make it slightly shorter still, but that's as easy as just trimming the bottom! I'm also considering raising the arm height if I do trim the bottom.
Notably, I just cut the original seat base for this instead of making a new one, so I need to redo the curved end too.

I stuck the seat base to the backboard at the height where the top of the foam would be. It's missing all of the bottom section for now, which I will make later, plus legs. For now, I raised it on some random objects/scraps.

Materials Planning Notes
For the good copy materials, I'm able to buy two types of craft foam board: 1.5 cm thickness, and 0.5 cm thickness.
I forgot to account for this in the original measurements, but this means anything using foam board needs to be in a multiple of 0.5cm.
I'm considering using thick cardstock for some parts that are thinner than 0.5cm or that have less even numbers, but I don't know where to buy it.
Everything will be cut with a scroll saw (I think that's what it's called, anyways) so the edges won't be nearly as jagged and rough as my box-cutter cardboard mess is!

As for fabric, I actually have no clue what I'm gonna use yet. I was considering floral cottons, or maybe real upholstery fabric, but that might be too thick. I'm either going to use a pale floral like the original, or a solid tone fabric with a subtle pattern.

Things that need to be worked on next:

♡ Adjust backboard height, raise arm

♡ re-round out the protruding seat end

♡ create the 3D arm structure

♡ mock-up the seat volume and legs (+ find jewellery box legs or make some?)

♡  find fabric to use for good copy

After some very cursory research I found that most lyres of that time didn't really look like the ones I'm used to seeing in media.

Some or more complicated than others, or even use more organic elements like horns and turtle shells. I found one that I decided was in my capacity to make and would look alright. I'm not going for 100% accuracy but close enough is fine for me.

So I began with some floral wire and tinfoil and made myself a base. This will reduce clay usage, keep the item light, keep the clay semi even and add some sturdiness.

Then I worked some polymer clay and rolled it out so I could get coverage as smooth as possible. I'm not expert so it still turned out lumpy but polymer clay is very forgiving.

Kept working it using some cheap plastic tools, paint brushes and alcohol for smoothing. I didn't keep track of the time but this wasn't quick work lol. I pressed in a circle to make the sound hole.

Worked some more! Evened it up, smoothed it out annnnd baked!

This isn't finished yet, I still have to sand it and add the knobs at the top and strings. But I wanted to post as I worked on this since I'm pretty pleased with how it's going so far. I'll add more pictures as I work. Have any of you made mini instruments? How did it go?

https://youtu.be/LUqOhE2hp3o?si=iQGQFE7I0-tIDNgw

Since mine is for DD, and I want them to stand at times, I'm using 1 inch thick XPS foam instead of 1/w inch, and the sides are 32 inches tall instead of 24. If you just wanted something for MSD, I would go with exactly what she has here. 

The benefit to this design is that it is meant to be collapsible.

I've noticed that the standard bust darts create a shaping in the chest that is a bit too pronounced for my doll that has S bust, she just doesn't really fill it out at all. It's very noticeably puffed in the chest when worn and you can easily press the puff down and make it concave with your finger.

In this case, would a bust dart be neccessary at all, or would a smaller dart fix it? I know bust darts are there to create the neccessary 3D shaping to accomodate the roundness of busts, but S bust is pretty small, so I'm not sure if it really needs the shaping to lay flat over the chest.

Normally I'd just trial and error it myself, but I'm a very slow sewer and after two no-go hand sewn blouses I want to be sure of my next steps before committing several hours again 😅

I began sewing for Pureneemo & Obitsu first. There's so many patterns & ebooks on Etsy for Blythe size dolls! The newest one I got is Doll Coordinate Recipe #12 - Fairytale style by Rosalynn Perle. I'm a sucker for lolita clothes.

Here's my Pureneemo, Nana, showing off her new outfit ... And Mirai's new bra. My copy of Taeko Sekiguchi's DD Sewing Book finally arrived and I'm slowly building up her wardrobe. I'd like to do a jirai-kei themed outfit for her first ~

I’d definitely recommend starting with stainless steel and gold and silver plated materials. Use craft wire if you decide to learn wire wrapping. You can get 50 feet of chain for $25 and that’s a lot to play with when making things for a doll.

A few of the things I've made.

Here is the detail on a body chain I made for my Sailor Mercury:

Ami Mizuno - Body Chain-12368.jpg by Cult-Of-Athena - Info Photos & Photo Stories, on Flickr

I wanted that chain to fit her top so the ring at the center shows through the ring on her top.

Ami Mizuno - Body Chain-12366.jpg by Cult-Of-Athena - Info Photos & Photo Stories, on Flickr

The blue stones in her jewelry are lapis lazuli, the green ones are malachite, the pink & white ones are coral, the bluish clear ones are aquamarines, and the green ones are emeralds. Those are D grade emeralds, so that's only about .50 cents worth of emeralds, but my Ami is wearing real gemstones, all of which were chosen to represent the ocean and the colors of sea water.

The chains and silver findings are sterling silver. Using B & C grade stones made all of those materials pretty cheap, except the silver chain which was about $40 for 5 feet. I think in total she's wearing about $40 worth of jewelry and considering that a string of plastic pearls will cost $20 from a bjd shop, that's not bad.

Makoto is wearing a stainless-steel body chain, and this one was intended to have more of a biker chick look to it. I do a lot with stainless steel because 50 feet of curb chain is $25, and it should last forever.

Makoto Kikuchi - Body Chain-12372.jpg by Cult-Of-Athena - Info Photos & Photo Stories, on Flickr

A much more delicate silver belt made with the leftovers from Ami's body chain. The drawback to silver is the rings really need to be soldered closed when you work with thinner gauge rings. Silver is very soft and at doll scales pulls apart easily. That’s another reason steel is nice, the rings don’t bend open easily.

Makoto Kikuchi - Body Chain-12373.jpg by Cult-Of-Athena - Info Photos & Photo Stories, on Flickr

Some pearl necklaces being modeled by my Elsa:

Queen Elsa - Necklaces-12384.jpg by Cult-Of-Athena - Info Photos & Photo Stories, on Flickr

Queen Elsa - Necklaces-12381.jpg by Cult-Of-Athena - Info Photos & Photo Stories, on Flickr

I've been working on some things for my Ariel for the Resin Rose BJD event. The theme is Adventure of the Seven Seas, so of course my little mermaid asked if she can go. Apparently, I am weak to eyelash fluttering, so she's going. I’ve been playing around with making her jewelry from seashells. In theory I could make her a bra from real scallop shells too.

Ariel - Necklaces-12376.jpg by Cult-Of-Athena - Info Photos & Photo Stories, on Flickr

I’m planning a necklace for her made with shells, brass, and sea glass. The kind of things you would find under the ocean. She should have some pearls too, but those will be fakes. You can get them in all sorts of colors, but the real ones, even tiny ones, are silly expensive. The long knotted ropes my Sapphire is wearing used about 240 two millimeter pearls, and that would have cost hundreds with real ones; plus they would have been pearl chips and not round.

Sapphire - Flapper-12244.jpg by Cult of Athena, on Flickr

If you learn how to use jump rings, you can assemble all sorts of custom items for your dolls. For doll earrings you can use resin clip-ons for people: https://www.firemountaingems.com/jewelry-supplies/findings/earring-findings/clip-on/?prefn1=material-detail&prefv1=Epoxy %26 Resin

I'd recommend using a jewelry supply company rather than amazon. I've had bad luck with any sort of consistency in the quality on amazon, and especially with plated metals. Some of it is fine and some is crap that discolors very quickly.

Anyone is welcome to post their own stuff in this thread. This is a fun thing, and you can make unique things for your girls that make an outfit pop.