Knee joint difference between 48 and 50cm?

I just got in my parts from Dollypop today after a month-long wait.

One part I was particularly excited about was thighs. The problem is that the DP thighs are longer than the AZO2 one by about 1cm, so the insertion depth into the hip joint is too shallow to hold.

The thighs work just fine when I see others (in Japan) install them on theirs, so I'm puzzled about what could be wrong.

I was under the impression that the AZO2 (both 48cm and 50cm) used the same upper thigh part, so I wouldn't have an issue, so I'm curious what I should do now.

What do you think I should do next?

Edited February 25, 2022 by chef_mai

Eh, the 2cm difference is splitted 1cm up and 1 cm down...

 

You must find a Obitsu50 leg frame or use something that can substitute the leg frame and cut it at the right lenght... unfortunately I don't know what can fit the bill.

I've used metal rods and magnets, but it's too work for just this and also the weight can detatch the leg.

33 minutes ago, Testament said:

Eh, the 2cm difference is splitted 1cm up and 1 cm down...

 

You must find a Obitsu50 leg frame or use something that can substitute the leg frame and cut it at the right lenght... unfortunately I don't know what can fit the bill.

I've used metal rods and magnets, but it's too work for just this and also the weight can detatch the leg.

The 48cm AZO2 is weird in that the shins are 2cm shorter (I measured it just now to be sure).

That said, if the solution is to get the standard knee joint (this?), I'm open to it. I just want to know for sure that it will solve the issue.

If you are able to, could you measure the length of the top peg for me like I did in the first post? That would settle my doubts for sure. Thanks!

Edited February 25, 2022 by chef_mai

Well, if you want to be sure it's better to wait for more experienced fellows, cause I own only  Angel Philia, VMF50 and I don't remember if a Obitsu48 or Obitsu50... but my VMF50 is the tall one, so probably the other is a Obitsu48...

 

But I have a pair of flying obitsu50 legs!

I'll try to measure the rods tomorrow.

Edited February 25, 2022 by Testament

Well, I've now in hand my only Obitsu50 leg and... the upper rod is 5.5 cm (=2.165 inch) with 7 indentations... exactly like your.

 

 

But you can extend it out of the knee (rotating it) for another good 1cm (for a grand total of 2.36") in a stable position.

 

 

Even this photo of my girls leaves me confused:

 

From left -> right:  Pure Angel Philia/Pink Drops (Obitsu48 frame)   -   VMF50 (Obitsu50 frame?)     -    Obitsu48     -    I don't remember, maybe she's an hybrid in her lower legs, but her upper legs I'm sure are Angel Philia Type-C so they fit Obitsu48 frame.

 

Now I'm really confused, cause I don't know if buying a Obitsu50 leg frame could solve our problem, Sorry...

Thanks, this did the trick, though at times I find that bending the knee in (for sitting) causes it to pop out again. 

The Dollypop owner also got back to me and recommended the same, under the assumption that the rod's the same length. They recommended halving the insertion depth.

A longer rod might help, but finding something this exact diameter would be pretty difficult.

I'm glad.

Anyway I'll prefer someone else with an obitsu50 to confirm the leg rod measure, just out of curiosity.

I might now have the opposite problem in a few weeks with Angel Philia once I get the parts (specifically type-H thigh)... a standard 50cm knee joint might be too long and require some modification. If my memory's correct, Obitsu factory trims the rods on 48cm models.

I won't be putting the parts on the existing body... it'll be an upgrade to the floating 45cm body I've got, so I'll be effectively replacing every outer skin + replacing the knee/elbow joints. I'm assuming that the bust/spine/hip skeleton parts are the same.

I'll keep the 45cm parts for a future project but am not in a position to add a third doll. 2's already enough for me...

Edited March 3, 2022 by chef_mai

I know the  O48 and O50 frame and I know that the 2cm difference is all in the legs, but I've never seen a O45 before, so I've no info on the skeleton of its upper body compared to the other obitsus...

 

But I doubt 5cm difference is again only in the legs. It a bit too much, for me.

Hmm, thanks for that hunch. I'll take a close look tonight and report back.

This is parabox, but at least for theirs, the torsos are identical in height.

https://paraboxshop.jp/index_en_jpy_142-149.html
https://paraboxshop.jp/index_en_jpy_142-151.html

I took a good look at my 45cm and picked it apart, then compared it to Mai's. The torso is shorter, but I believe it's because the Dollypop torso is longer.

I took the entire thing apart, and the spine/chest skeleton parts look normal to me. I also pulled the spine apart from the hip to double-check that the connector rod there was not trimmed.

(Edit - As a sidenote, the Parabox 40cm model uses a unique 2 part spine vs. the 3 part that all other models use - 45/47/48/50).

I've called out the 3 spots where the "bones" are factory trimmed since they have a rough surface.

• The wrist joints are trimmed. Which is notable since if you wanted to use different hands, you'd be forced to either trim every extra pair you got or do a blow dryer dance every time you wanted to switch hands.
• The upper knee joints are trimmed for the shorter thighs.
• The shoulder joint that attaches to the elbow joint is also trimmed.

I also noticed that the shins appear to be the same as those on my 48cm Azone, but since I know these shins are 1cm shorter than "normal" 48cm Obitsu shins, I probably would want to pick up standard shins too.

However... I noticed on Parabox's site that the shins for their 45/48cm models are the same, and the part number for that is also the same as the standard 48cm Obitsu shin. So I'm really confused.

(The legs with sneakers are from the 48cm with the 2 flanking it being from the 45cm.

While I'm not 100% certain of this, my observation is that height differences in the Obitsu 4x/5x family are achieved by trimming the 3 joints I've pointed out.

Based off these findings, I'll need to buy a different set of items from previously expected to convert the 45 -> 48.

• Knee joint (which I'll then have to trim the top rod down for)
• Shoulder joint
• Wrist joint
• Neck joint
• Shin skin (probably)

Edited March 6, 2022 by chef_mai

I finally found a blog post from Angel Philia outlining exactly how much to cut. It appears that you cut off 2 notches from the thigh rod, 3 notches from the shin rod.

It's a little confusing though with that sidenote since that's precisely the case that will apply for me.

http://quarantottoangel.blog.fc2.com/blog-entry-17.html

Very informative, thank you for your analisys.

On 3/4/2022 at 4:44 PM, chef_mai said:

However... I noticed on Parabox's site that the shins for their 45/48cm models are the same, and the part number for that is also the same as the standard 48cm Obitsu shin. So I'm really confused.

This sounds about right. The 50cm shins are only about 1.5cm longer than Parabox's 45cm shins. Here's mine for reference:

For specific measurements the 45cm shins measure 9.2cm down the front, and the 50cm measure 10.7cm. Based on this, I wonder if you would even need a different shin piece at all?

Thanks for sharing that! In that case, the shins are probably one and the same or at most a 0.5cm difference.

I did end up ordering the shins anyways since I want to swap from rigid -> semi-rigid for that part since shipping's already so expensive. I don't look forward to removing the ankle joint from the rigid skin though...
 

 

Use an hair dryer, it's the only way.

 

Btw... I don't know if there are semirigid shins... I mean the one on APs are hard as an obitsu's.

3 hours ago, Testament said:

Use an hair dryer, it's the only way.

 

Btw... I don't know if there are semirigid shins... I mean the one on APs are hard as an obitsu's.

Nanika posted this in the other thread, and I observed the same.

My AZO2 had the rigid ones on the left. It's 100% rigid and doesn't press in at all. My 45cm has the semi-rigid ones on the right. It's not squishy, but it's  able to be pressed in somewhat.

My main concern with the shin removal is to avoid breaking the ankle joint that I just repaired. I'm not entirely sure what action ends up stressing that joint the most.

Oh, never seen the ones on the left. I have obitsu parts open (same as right picture) but they're hard as rock. Same for the tatooed thighs for AP. Maybe I must press harder XD.

I rush shipped the parts via DHL. They came in 3 days vs. 5 weeks for EMS.

The shins are... exactly the same part in the end. That's fine since I ought to switch out the rigid to semi-rigid anyways.

I was reminded of that with the arms last night when I was doing the photoshoot. The rigid arms seem to really crimp Mai's ability to pose, particularly when trying to bend the forearm closely to the upper arm.

I got around it by pulling the rods out of the sockets just a little to give a little more play.

Edited March 10, 2022 by chef_mai

On 3/4/2022 at 1:17 AM, chef_mai said:

I finally found a blog post from Angel Philia outlining exactly how much to cut. It appears that you cut off 2 notches from the thigh rod, 3 notches from the shin rod.

It's a little confusing though with that sidenote since that's precisely the case that will apply for me.

http://quarantottoangel.blog.fc2.com/blog-entry-17.html

I ended up having to trim 1 notch for a soft skin type-H. It probably wouldn't hurt to trim a little more, but ymmv.

I can't seem to get a good lock into the hip joint for one of the legs. It's not super loose, but my test is whether the leg holds if moved to 90 degrees. One of them slowly drops down.

That said, I'm happy that Mai can do things like this now. 

On 2/26/2022 at 3:30 AM, Testament said:

 

I don't remember, maybe she's an hybrid in her lower legs, but her upper legs I'm sure are Angel Philia Type-C so they fit Obitsu48 frame.

How much bigger is the type C upper leg compared to a regular Obitsu upper leg? I'm pondering about letting Mai swap in type C selectively, so she can fit into cropped jeans for SD as well as MDD overalls that have a little extra room on a reg Obitsu frame but nowhere near enough to fit on AZO2, H, etc.

Edited April 7, 2022 by chef_mai

Well, C legs are somewhere between H and regular Obitsu48, but more on the H side.

I've done this to illustrate (based on stock photos): C are slimmer (I can't measure now) tha H, but not so much.