Seams and hems! What do you do?

As both my sewing machines died last year, and I am waiting for my postdoc to start before I can buy a new one (and an overlocker? ~~~want~~~), I've been hand sewing all my dolls clothes. While this is not impractical, given how small the pieces are, it has made me very aware about how I treat the seams of outfits.

 

When I hand sew, my seams usually end up as french seams or mock french seams, as I am really paranoid about the bare edges. Sometimes I use an anti fray glue where there isn't enough room for an enclosed seam, or where it would add too much bulk.

 

So my question is, how does everyone else tidy their seams? If you use a machine, do you just overlock/zig zag the edge or do you also try and hide them?

Give myself enough room to iron down the edges (inwards), iron them flat and then sew the folded edges together with a sewing machine. I've been making a lot of pillows though so this may not work specifically for your projects! Good luck~

 

I have a serger so I like using that :3 I know exactly how you feel, raw edges need to be kept tidy/serged/out-of-sight.

 

If you aren't overlocking I'd say go for the french seam method. As for hems, iron it under like one normally would then iron it under again for a double fold.

 

If you're like me and sewing is a major hobby that you do a lot, I'd say invest in a serger I used my aunt's for a while before being able to buy my own. I have a kenmore that was actually on clearance for $169. AWESOME BUY.

If you're like me and sewing is a major hobby that you do a lot, I'd say invest in a serger I used my aunt's for a while before being able to buy my own. I have a kenmore that was actually on clearance for $169. AWESOME BUY.

 

Yup, after years of resisting I am giving in I am really tempted to splash out and get myself a high end serger, on the basis that it will last longer, and have more features. As I make (or used to make before my sewing machines died) human and doll scale cosplays, I am really interested the the ones with a wave stitch and fancy edging. (But maybe not the coverstitch? I've heard it's really a faff to switch between the two on a serger that can do it, so I figure I'd either need to use it a lot, and therefore may as well invest in a separate machine for coverstitch, or rarely need it, and make do with a double needle set up on my sewing machine.)

 

Having said all that I am interested in both Akira and Moe so I am not sure whether it'll be doll, serger, both or two dollies :S

If you don't have a serger, pinking your seam allowance after sewing them will work decently on doll clothing. I serge most of my projects, but some things are better off pinked than serged, especially if you line your items (which I recommend since there is always a stain risk with DDs). A pair of pinking sheers is cheap and it works better IMO than zigzagging. Zigzagging won't stop fray, it just helps keep it from reaching your seam and causing it to split. Pinking sheers cut the fabric on the bias in a zig zag, which helps keep the fabric from damaging fraying. Fraying bits come off in short fibers instead of unraveling in long threads.

 

That fray check liquid really isn't worth the $. It's unsightly and crispy on a lot of materials and only minimally prevents fray. It's really meant to be a quick fix and not a solution to fray.

 

Another alternative is to buy in a sewing machine with a faux serge stitch. It's a better investment to get a nice sewing machine and forgo a serger all together or get a cheap one like this one which is awesome for the price http://www.amazon.com/Brother-1034D-Lay--Thread-Serger/dp/B0000CBK1L/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1311580037&sr=8-1) Putting money into a sewing machine is the best thing you can do for the quality of your work, so even if a serger with many features is calling to you, it won't do as much for you as a really nice brother or husqvarna machine can. That's why I'd say drop the big $ on your main machine and go budget on something like a serger.

This sounds like a topic I should pay attention to! Since I don't have a machine, I hand-sow and finding advice that is intelligible to someone who never did sowing before getting into Dollfies is difficult! I've learnt that I should sow up the edges to minimise fraying but at the moment I just do a simple over/under stitch or make sure raw edges are tucked away. I'd really appreciate any other ways of keeping edges tidy too! ^^

Bumping this thread up, because I've spent a lot of time thinking about it today. I looked at some tutorials for French seams on YouTube and practiced on some scraps, but it seems to add bulk for such tiny items. Also, tried a flat-felled seam. Have you guys tried either for doll clothes? Which do you prefer?

 

The other thing I'm struggling with is if I use French seams, how much seam allowance do I use? For example, Jadepixel's pattern says she left one centimeter of allowance -- is that enough to do a French seam?

 

I realize that likely I'll just have to try it, but I thought I'd ask for input.

Bumping this thread up, because I've spent a lot of time thinking about it today. I looked at some tutorials for French seams on YouTube and practiced on some scraps, but it seems to add bulk for such tiny items. Also, tried a flat-felled seam. Have you guys tried either for doll clothes? Which do you prefer?

 

The other thing I'm struggling with is if I use French seams, how much seam allowance do I use? For example, Jadepixel's pattern says she left one centimeter of allowance -- is that enough to do a French seam?

 

I realize that likely I'll just have to try it, but I thought I'd ask for input.

 

I have tryed both types of seams. I use the French seams on my Miko outfits. They have the room so it is not too bulky. As for the flat-felled seam it just does not work in the size I am trying to use it in. So I dont use it too much. As for Jadepixel's pattern I dont think a French seam is the way to go but thats me. A straight stich will work. If you can pick Chuns and Kuraikawai brains a bit they can tell some good seams to use.

Thanks, fenrir. But if you used a straight stitch for Jadepixel's pattern, how did you prevent praying? Pinking? Zigzag stitch? Nothing, since the clothes aren't worn by moving people?

Thanks, fenrir. But if you used a straight stitch for Jadepixel's pattern, how did you prevent praying? Pinking? Zigzag stitch? Nothing, since the clothes aren't worn by moving people?

 

Pinking helps with the fraying. Here is something funny I got a $30 set of pinking scissors and I have not used then to this day. I just use my moms. I also use fray stop. It is a glue that you put on the ends of your cloth you stop fraying. I try not to use it that much as it is kind of like rubber when it drys. And that is not good when trying to pull up a dress on a doll. But about 70% of the time I dont do anything. As you said it is not going to be worn by moveing people. But if I plan on saleing or give an outfit away I make sure the fraying is as little as it is. That and it just looks cleaner.

I don't usually finish the edges if they are hidden. Pinking does look cute but not all fabrics handle it well, or maybe I just don't cut my pieces properly ^_^;