Sewing your Own Doll Clothes. What advice would you give?

I hope this is the right spot for this topic!

Doll tailors, what advice would you give to an aspiring tailor who is looking to get into sewing/making their own doll clothes?
What tools to get or avoid? Fabrics that should be generally be avoided or hold off on till advance practice. Such things like that. Any personal tips and tricks you which you new before you had dived in.

Use a pattern. Without pattern sewing results will be less. 

On 6/16/2023 at 5:36 AM, CrimsonSkadi said:

What tools to get or avoid? Fabrics that should be generally be avoided or hold off on till advance practice.

In terms of sewing machines expensive might not be better for instance, especially if starting out. I recently (actually two years ago, but havent used it much) upgraded from a cheap mechanical Singer to a electronic controlled one (Stylist series) and the electronic one while having some quality of life features (threader, vertical spool, automatic needle up-down stops, and the ability to go a stitch at a time at the press of a button), it still has some annoyances like resetting the stitch settings every time you turn it off, and oddly enough the mechanical one was able to go much slower in terms of continuous sewing.

In terms of fabric, regular old cotton (starched?) is probably best to start out with just to get a feel for the hobby. Satin for instance will probably be a source of frustration with the fraying edges, while trying to wrestle it around.

Its also better to practice on cheaper fabric before going at it with the good stuff, not that fabric usage is going to be high considering the scale (although once you get into pattern nesting with the weave direction in mind, consuption might go up).

As rajke mentioned pre-made patterns are a nice way to start out, way less time consuming than trying to figure something out yourself. Jadepixel I believe had some nice looking free patterns available on their page.

Also -- practice and patience makes everything.

14 minutes ago, finnleo said:

In terms of sewing machines expensive might not be better for instance, especially if starting out. I recently (actually two years ago, but havent used it much) upgraded from a cheap mechanical Singer to a electronic controlled one (Stylist series) and the electronic one while having some quality of life features (threader, vertical spool, automatic needle up-down stops, and the ability to go a stitch at a time at the press of a button), it still has some annoyances like resetting the stitch settings every time you turn it off, and oddly enough the mechanical one was able to go much slower in terms of continuous sewing.

In terms of fabric, regular old cotton (starched?) is probably best to start out with just to get a feel for the hobby. Satin for instance will probably be a source of frustration with the fraying edges, while trying to wrestle it around.

Its also better to practice on cheaper fabric before going at it with the good stuff, not that fabric usage is going to be high considering the scale (although once you get into pattern nesting with the weave direction in mind, consuption might go up).

As rajke mentioned pre-made patterns are a nice way to start out, way less time consuming than trying to figure something out yourself. Jadepixel I believe had some nice looking free patterns available on their page.

Also -- practice and patience makes everything.

This is excellent information!

I had bought some how to sew books to learn the language of patterns but one of the main call outs is to learn your sewing machine. Though it doesn't provide any suggestion on which one to go for. I will take a look at the cheaper ones to help me get started. This information should help me dip my feet into sewing. x3

15 minutes ago, CrimsonSkadi said:

I will take a look at the cheaper ones to help me get started.

mm, well I probably should re-phrase it slightly, that I still recommend getting as nice a machine as you can, but within a price range that the purchase price wont severly add to the frustrations of learning. So, just dont go too cheap that the thing falls apart after six months for instance, but this shouldnt be too much of an issue with name brand machines I think (at least warrenty stuff should be honored).

 

 

3 minutes ago, finnleo said:

mm, well I probably should re-phrase it slightly, that I still recommend getting as nice a machine as you can, but within a price range that the purchase price wont severly add to the frustrations of learning. So, just dont go too cheap that the thing falls apart after six months for instance, but this shouldnt be too much of an issue with name brand machines I think (at least warrenty stuff should be honored).

 

 

Ah, I was going to look between Singer and Brother sewing machines. Seem to be the common ones I am seeing being used in some of the tutorial videos I have found, sadly most don't show the model and the ones that do are no longer being sold.

Whatever you do, do not buy the cheapest Singer that they carry at big box stores like Walmart. I bought one when I was young and poor, and it was just an exercise in frustration, since the bobbin thread regularly jammed. I ended up getting rid of it and investing in a middle of the line Brother that I got from Joann's when they had a sale. It is much easier to use.

1 hour ago, Jezrah said:

Whatever you do, do not buy the cheapest Singer that they carry at big box stores like Walmart. I bought one when I was young and poor, and it was just an exercise in frustration, since the bobbin thread regularly jammed. I ended up getting rid of it and investing in a middle of the line Brother that I got from Joann's when they had a sale. It is much easier to use.

I won't ever be able to sew, but I agree with this. I bought a Brother XL2610 Free-Arm, and it is a piece of garbage. The thread tension is always wrong, and the pedal is not consistent with any kind of pressure. I set myself up for failure, and I don't know if I want to even give sewing a go anymore. So much to try to learn, and my old brain cannot handle it.

4 hours ago, Jezrah said:

since the bobbin thread regularly jammed

bobbin jams is probably something I forgot. what I recall of my old Tradition singer (there are two styles of mechanicals, so dont know if the other one with the reverse lever at the base is worse) was occasionally finicky with this, and required some attention with the bobbin carrier's pinch spring tension, and also that the sliders the bobbin-swing rotated in were oiled (Just a few drops)  ... also if the needle was even slightly bent ended up with a tangle. But it wasnt frequent enough in my case to upgrade... not that I had money to upgrade either (Funny this actually ... buy 300-500$ dolls on a semi regular basis, then cheap out with the cheaper sewing machine).

Also I got mine 15 years ago, so wouldnt know if they cheapend the internals to be more out of whack ( i believe the cheapest of the cheap have plastic inner frames now, which isnt confidence inspiring, I think mine was still zinc-something when I took it apart for annual maintenance)

Personally just havent used my three or four times more expensive Stylist (for reasons already mentioned... still need to look into trying to make it slower, which I miss the most of the old mechanical clonker) as much to actually say if its any better, though I've read the horizontal bobbin is better in this regard, at the very east it deletes one adjustment need.

Edited June 26, 2023 by finnleo

Would you recommend buying an older model then the new ones if the interior isn't plastic? I keep seeing local posts of FB market of people just selling their brother or singer sewing machines only cause they no longer have time to use them. So far I have been lucky to find reviews on some of the sewing machines I have looked at that talk about not being user friendly or beginner friendly. 

hmm.. well, buying used will depend on how good a deal it is compared to retail price. Also one thing to keep in mind when buying used and comparing to new machine prices is that do you still get the same accessories (users manual, presser-feet, tools, extra needles, extra bobbins, etc), even though you might not even have use for them immediately.

The user friendlyness probably comes into play with computerized/electronic machines.

With these if you can find a users manual online of any machine you are considering, and just by using that are able to figure out how to set stitch type, length and in some cases width, (And maybe also needle position on straight stitch) you are well on your way. Also does the user interface make sense to you. For instance here are two machines:

Singer 9100

Singer 7258

These two probably on a mechanical level function very similarly but the main difference is how you make them do what you want, and more buttons might not automatically be better, but if the manual makes any sense, the machine probably will too.

But all in all, just remember that with doll sewing you only need to know how to set straight stitches (typical default setting), and zig-zag, and maybe how to use the reverse function to keep stuff from unraveling right away.

12 hours ago, finnleo said:

hmm.. well, buying used will depend on how good a deal it is compared to retail price. Also one thing to keep in mind when buying used and comparing to new machine prices is that do you still get the same accessories (users manual, presser-feet, tools, extra needles, extra bobbins, etc), even though you might not even have use for them immediately.

The user friendlyness probably comes into play with computerized/electronic machines.

With these if you can find a users manual online of any machine you are considering, and just by using that are able to figure out how to set stitch type, length and in some cases width, (And maybe also needle position on straight stitch) you are well on your way. Also does the user interface make sense to you. For instance here are two machines:

Singer 9100

Singer 7258

These two probably on a mechanical level function very similarly but the main difference is how you make them do what you want, and more buttons might not automatically be better, but if the manual makes any sense, the machine probably will too.

But all in all, just remember that with doll sewing you only need to know how to set straight stitches (typical default setting), and zig-zag, and maybe how to use the reverse function to keep stuff from unraveling right away.

I was able to understand both manuals, while I did like the 9100 more as it was more in-depth with the instructions and with additional techniques near the end. It had more features that I don't really think I need xD

It actually never occurred to me to read the manuals before buying a machine. I definingly got some homework to do!

Thank you so much for all your advice and personal experience, I greatly appreciate it!

16 hours ago, CrimsonSkadi said:

9100 more as it was more in-depth with the instructions and with additional techniques near the end. It had more features that I don't really think I need xD

It actually never occurred to me to read the manuals before buying a machine.

mm, I specificly dug up the 9100 since thats what I have now, and after ten or so years using a basic mechanical, It wasnt as obvious to use in terms of some functions the mechanical one was, hence having to dive into the manual.

But good luck on your hunt for something suitable.

Keep patterns of everything you do! You may think you don't want to do a type of clothing again, but that pattern may ended being helpful on other projects. 

Other handy tools:

• a craft iron. Pressing seams as you sew sets the threads and improves the overall appearance of the garment.
• Seam gauge. Most doll patterns I’ve run across use 1/4” / .5 or .6 cm seam allowances. I find it handy to use with doll clothes rather than pulling out a tape measure.
• hand sewing. Depends on your doll size. As a sewist for dolls that range in size from 26 - 80 cm, I find it difficult to use my sewing machine for Yo-SD / Blythe clothes.
• Wash and press fabric before cutting out the pattern. It’s been a long time since I’ve seen yardage dyes bleed but better safe than sorry.
• A bit more advanced because it helps to understand fabric grain: Recycle your worn out clothes. The dyes are fully washed out, the fabric is soft.
• various sized snaps. I’m not a fan of Velcro in doll clothes; I find it snags on wigs.
• tiny buttons. use snaps for the closure, but sew tiny buttons on the right side. Tiny button holes are tough to sew. Save yourself some angst.
• Finishing details (top stitching, decorations, etc) make all the difference.

Happy sewing!

Edited August 18 by Tenukihandcrafts
Spelling

On 6/15/2023 at 7:36 PM, CrimsonSkadi said:

I hope this is the right spot for this topic!

Doll tailors, what advice would you give to an aspiring tailor who is looking to get into sewing/making their own doll clothes?
What tools to get or avoid? Fabrics that should be generally be avoided or hold off on till advance practice. Such things like that. Any personal tips and tricks you which you new before you had dived in.

This may not be relevant to OP in particular anymore, but maybe it can help someone else!

Machine thoughts:

Honestly, don't discount hand sewing as an option. For one, every project takes at least some hand sewing anyway, especially at doll scale. It's also less of an upfront investment, usually takes less space than a machine, and is of course WAY quieter. It's for these reasons that I end up hand sewing most of the time, since I usually get my sewing in between phone calls at work, or when I'm on hold with another department or a customer is talking my ear off lol. I usually only break my machine out for larger projects like home decor, or if I'm sewing a particularly large item for my dolls like a floor length gown. 

If you DO want to invest in a machine: vintage vintage vintage. This is especially true for Singer brand machines, you'd want some thing from the 70's or earlier: in the 70's Singer was bought out, and moved to plastic parts on their low and mid range machines. Vintage machines may not have fancy stitches (which people rarely use anyway tbh) but omg they are built like absolute BEASTS. My grandma gave me her vintage Kenmore, and that thing has sewn through a seam that had 4 layers of upholstery fabric AND a piece of real leather. Do not underestimate older machines. If you can't find one, then I would say either hand sew until you can get one, or if you get one of the lower end modern machines, just keep aware that you'll probably be looking at replacing it rather than repairing it. . . and just keep an eye out on secondhand markets for the vintage treasures. The main exception is if you get into other types of sewing that DO require a higher end modern machine, like if you're actually selling things and therefore want a serger, or if you get into like, machine embroidery.

The absolute must have tools:

-GOOD SCISSORS. That should be your number 1 investment. They should ONLY be for fabric and thread, using them on anything else should be on pain of death.

-Iron and ironing board. Don't underestimate the absolute magic pressing can work on your stuff.

-Hand swing needles in at least a couple sizes

-Seam ripper. You will have to undo and redo stuff. This is normal, best to just have the tool handy. 

-A seam gauge. It's a ruler with a little slider on it. The slider stays put, so you use it to mark the same distance each spot you measure. It's meant for seam allowance, but I've also used it for marking where trims and embroidery should go. 

-Pins. Lots of them. Not only will you probably lose some over time, but when pinning curves or gathers, it's so nice to have the option of just using an obscene number of pins. 

-A pin cushion or two, quality doesn't have to be particularly fancy. Personally I have a traditional tomato cushion for my needles and a magnetic one for my pins so I can be lazy when I pull them out of my work lol

-Flexible tape measure. Again, doesn't have to be fancy, but preferably should have inches on one side and centimeters on the other so you don't have to convert. 

-Tools for marking: I use a chalk pencil for marking dark fabric, and on lighter ones I use one of those "fades with heat" type ones. 

Optional nice-to-haves:

-A tube turner. Extra nice on doll scale since it can also be used for things like sleeves. 

-A flex curve--it's like a bendy ruler with a wire in it so you can pose it. Useful for if you need to adjust a pattern. 

-Pinking shears. Those scissors that cut in a zigzag. Used to reduce fraying on certain fabrics and to reduce bulk in curved seams. 

-Fray Check. It's like a thin glue, applied to edges to further reduce fraying. You get the cleanest result if you apply it, let it dry, and THEN cut, but you can apply it after the fact in a pinch. 

-Rotary cutter and cutting mat. These kind of go together tbh. Usually used more in quilting than in garments though, since rotary cutters are kind of hard to steer around curves. 

-Needle threader tool. Not all thread and needle combinations necessarily need these, but they're handy to have for smaller eyed needles or threads that want to fray.

-Shop towels. Probably the least expected thing on this list, these thin towels do have some cotton in them but are inexpensive and disposable. I use them for doll size mockups before actually cutting into my fabric. I pin along where the seams will be, and put the mockup on the doll to test and adjust the fit. 

There are probably other tools out there I haven't experienced, but out of what I am acquainted with, these are things that are in my usual sewing arsenal. Most other items are more niche and used on a per-project basis.

Difficult Materials:

I'm not saying never use these, but I am saying to have patience when you do. . .and maybe have some extra swear words in your vocabulary lol.

-Satin. Even good satin is slippery and prone to both fraying and puckering, and cheap satin even more so. Resist the urge to buy cheap satin at Halloween, and if you do get good satin, use fray check, new/sharp pins, and flat line it. Bias cut the satin if you have enough, too. And take your time, I do not recommend using satin for anything that's on a deadline.

-Chiffon. Similar to satin in that it's slippery and it frays. . . but because it's sheer you often can't flat line it, and your hems and seams will show every flaw. 

-Metallic thread. It doesn't matter if you're hand sewing or machine sewing, metallic thread is basically possessed by the souls of angry stray cats. It catches, it tangles, and the thin machine grade stuff also tends to break. I've actually never found using metallic thread by machine worth the trouble. For hand sewing with metallic thread, use shorter lengths than you do with normal thread, and pressing/ironing it helps a ton to minimize tangles. If I'm doing a lot of metallic work I'll just have out a hair straightener to press my metallic thread instead of bothering with the iron lolololol

Hopefully that helps someone, and if anyone has other questions, hit me up!