Digital Sewing Pattern Drafting

Over in Tieren's thread DDS Blouse and Skirt Patterns it seemed as if there was a discussion about drafting patterns on the computer (although looking at it again I think I misread it.) But I had already typed out my rather long winded answer and decided to post a new thread so I wouldn't be derailing the pattern thread. Still, I think it's a worthwhile discussion.

 

What I thought the original question was: "Is it possible to experiment with alternate ways of digitally creating patterns without using existing pattern-drafting software?"

 

(And my answer...)

 

Yes, it is possible:

 

 

All the DD clothes I make & draft patterns for are started on the DD body itself using scrap fabric and a water soluble sewing marker or from measurements taken from the body and transferred to graph paper. Most of the time they get scanned & cleaned up in Adobe Illustrator, working with 'snapping to grid' to make patterns that are consistent (but mostly because it saves me LOADS of time compared to hand drafting the seam allowances.) The patterns get printed, cut out, & drafted in the white muslin (it's cheap) and sewn so I can see what adjustments can be made. If any, it is super easy to alter the pattern and print it out again until everything's right.

 

In the pic above, the top is on the 3rd draft, and the skirt was the first draft. The more form fitting a piece is, the longer it can take to get it to fit right. Why don't I show the back of the outfit? Because the top is still pinned together & unfinished. So it has about 1-2 more drafts to go once I decide how it should close in the back (Snaps? Velcro? Hook & Eye? Dunno... can't decide. LOL!) The skirt does have a zipper, but still needs another draft because it looks sloppy/unfinished on the inside.

 

 

This bodice hugging dress I made for Naiomi took about 5 drafts so far and still isn't complete because it needs to be lined. Depending on the thickness of the lining fabric the pattern might need to be altered again.

 

 

And I don't even care to think how many drafts it has taken for the T-shirts I've made for multiple DD sizes 16+ drafts minimum, and I still need to do them for the DD M bust, SS bust, MDD M & L bust, Obitsu 45cm, DDS boy, DD boy, Smart Doll Boy (when I can get my hands on him), alter the MDD set to fit Tama's Obitsu chest since they are just a bit too snug... Urg, I kinda hate those shirts sometimes.

 

Inkscape is the free/open source version of what Adobe Illustrator does, but I use Illustrator because the layout of the program makes MUCH more sense to me but it has a hefty price tag with it. I use Illustrator CS4 and hope to upgrade to CS6 someday but Adobe makes it super hard to find it on their site (and I KNOW what I'm looking for!) because they want people to use the "Creative Cloud" (subscription ver.) that is much more expensive in the long run.

 

I live in the USA but I still draft everything using the metric system. Why? It is LOADS more accurate than inches for the scale that DD are, and much easier to divide. I have made myself some Illustrator sewing templates with the grid lines 1cm apart with a subdivision every 1/2 cm and the template also has all the standard sewing notations I'm used to and seam allowances written in there for easy referance. The template is also sized to perfectly fit the maximum printer space so it is really easy to print pieces out when I need them without the fuss.

 

Pattern drafting does not need to be this complicated. It just really depends on your skill level and your ultimate goal. For me, I spend almost all my time doing various pattern drafting (for fabric, paper & cardboard for some projects I'm working on) because I'm designing products for Naiomi's Closet (my DD clothes store & other fun things) that I'm aiming to open before summer. I need to be uber fussy in my drafting because of that, but someone who is just sewing for their own girls doesn't need to be so stiff about it.

 

Personally I do not recommend using a 3D mesh for pattern drafting because by their very nature you can make things work perfectly on a mesh that does not work in real life.

 

Tinker Fairies by Sister Kyoya, on Flickr

 

Yeah, I kinda know about these things. This was my first project for my college 3D class when we were told to make an 'alien' landscape. The other projects I saw were like floating balls and other very simple things.

 

 

Naiomi's glasses? Yup, those were 3D printed from a mesh I made. My brain works like a 3D drafting software when I analyze anything regardless of materials. I can't help it, it's just an innate thing with me but I also wanted to show that I know what I'm talking about instead of expecting you to take my word on it. I hate when people do that, assuming their knowledge extends to everyone else around them (and partially explains why I get so long-winded.)

 

The biggest thing is if you want to sew, start anywhere! And if you already know some about sewing, keep working at it & learning more. To me it amazes me at how super easy it is to always have something new to learn even just with YouTube & Pinterest! I started out sewing a felt dress for my 3in. high troll doll when I was 12, finding out that it is super difficult to sew gathered felt on a sewing machine. I doubt I could have imagined where my skill level would be in the 25 years since then. Frankly it can be a very rewarding hobby, especially when we have such adorable girls to make things for!

 

I must also add I'm an obsessive-compulsive perfectionist.

 

~Sister Kyoya

I think you may have been referring to my comment in that thread? I was thinking along the lines of actual pattern drafting software, which is AutoCAD based and very expensive: http://www.designsew.com/proddetail.php?prod=DOLLWEAR_v6i

I admire you & all the effort you take in making the perfect garments for your dolls That kind of dedication is amazing -- especially since I feel I take the super lazy route of pattern making.

 

I find it easier to sketch out patterns onto paper, cut it a bit larger for seam allowance and do a mock paper draft that way-- unless I've made a similar pattern, in which case I'd just cut the fabric out... and hope for the best.

 

^^ Thank you for sharing how you make your patterns& outfits. It's motivating me to try sewing more for my girls~ ( and to try and be more precise instead of 'well... it fits...?')

I think you may have been referring to my comment in that thread? I was thinking along the lines of actual pattern drafting software, which is AutoCAD based and very expensive: http://www.designsew.com/proddetail.php?prod=DOLLWEAR_v6i

 

Actually yeah. I'm dyslexic so it isn't uncommon for me to read things wrong.

 

As for the software, I'm sure something like that would be useful for a lot of people if they wanted to take the time to learn it. I use Illustrator because it was a tool I already have since I'm more of a graphics designer than anything. Another reason why I suggested Inkscape if someone was interested in drafting this way is it is a 'multipurpose' tool, because using vectors is awesome for graphics design.

 

Thank you for posting a link in case someone else would be interested in something like that!

 

I admire you & all the effort you take in making the perfect garments for your dolls That kind of dedication is amazing -- especially since I feel I take the super lazy route of pattern making.

 

Funny thing is, even though the explanation is pretty long, this is my quick and kinda lazy pattern drafting. I've done plenty of DD and full sized pattern drafting from measurements with a ruler and did the seam allowances by hand... Ug, nothing but a lesson in frustration to me. The first draft of Tamayuki's pants probably took me 3 hours by hand compared to maybe a half hour to 45 minutes in Illustrator. As much as I try not to obsess over perfectly straight lines and proper curves, every time I tried to 'wing it' and draw it out I just get bitten in the rear and it utterly stresses me out. Plus I love having the patterns on the computer because revising the drafts means I can usually make the alterations and have the pattern ready to test again in less than 15 minutes, often in only 5 min. instead of redrawing the whole thing.

 

I find it easier to sketch out patterns onto paper, cut it a bit larger for seam allowance and do a mock paper draft that way-- unless I've made a similar pattern, in which case I'd just cut the fabric out... and hope for the best.

 

I think this is the very reason I have a much more difficult time with most jersey fabric, it isn't as fussy as cotton. Most people actually find it as a benefit because it makes so that the base patterns don't have to be as fussy. If I'm really stumped on how to draft a pattern, I have a higher success rate taking some scrap fabric and just sewing (by hand) directly on the DD approx where the seams will go, draw over the seams with the sewing marker, and pulling it all apart to see where the lines go. This only works if you have a solid center line and the fabric isn't centered on the bias (unless it needs to be). This is actually how I was finally able to draft some workable versions of Naiomi's dress above. Sometimes pattern shapes aren't always intuitive.

 

^^ Thank you for sharing how you make your patterns& outfits. It's motivating me to try sewing more for my girls~ ( and to try and be more precise instead of 'well... it fits...?')

 

You're very welcome!

 

A few other things I do is write the pattern name, pattern piece name, pattern number (the date of the first draft of that pattern), and size (if needed) on each piece to make things LOADS easier later on after you have a few patterns, you'll know what pieces go together. Here's an example:

 

Naiomi's Witch Dress

DDS L Bust

 

Front Piece

10312014

 

(1 of 3)

 

Cut 1 of fabric

on Fold

 

Cut 1 of lining

on Fold

 

Although they don't have to be this long, I figured I'd write the long version for a through example.

 

I store most of my patterns in ziploc bags to keep them from being scattered everywhere, especially since DD clothes can have some small pattern pieces.

 

Lastly, clear packing tape is actually an invaluable part of my pattern drafting tools. I know, it sounds strange, but I use it to 'laminate' at least the front of final draft patterns before they are cut out of the paper to make them MUCH more durable, especially since I find it easiest to use the air-dry sewing marker to transfer my patterns to the fabric. This way I can reuse the patterns without them changing shape because of the moisture from the marker. As an added bonus, the ink doesn't go into the paper so the markers last significantly longer too. As a warning though, it can take some practice to get the tape down without lumps or wrinkles.

 

~Sister Kyoya

As for the software, I'm sure something like that would be useful for a lot of people if they wanted to take the time to learn it. I use Illustrator because it was a tool I already have since I'm more of a graphics designer than anything.

The software is for generating basic sloapers for seamstresses to make their own complex items from. I have an earlier version of the software I linked; it's preloaded with all basic sloapers; you fill in the different measurements of the doll and bam!--Instant fitted bodices, sleeves, pants, etc. for dolls of any size and shape. I find it very useful when I'm taking an online clothing commission for a doll I don't have in my collection, or if I'm working with a floppy doll who won't sit still for draping. XD

 

I do use Illustrator as well to digitize the completed doll patterns I sell; it makes the PDF files so much smaller.

 

(I'm a graphic designer, too! *fist bump*)

Rather than posting on my own old thread I'll answer the question here:

 

Yes, I use free software to replicate what can be done with actual clothes-making software, which is very expensive if you aren't making money with it. I spent some time thinking about what I would have to do to write my own software for it, but didn't want to 'reinvent the wheel' (one of my past supervisors liked to say that).

 

I find that Inkscape meets my needs for graphic design software. I use it for other things outside of sewing patterns, mainly for resizable diagrams for technical reports.

 

I haven't posted the details on these forums before but I do something like this:

1) Build a model of the dollfie's body in blender.

2) Build a model of the clothes around the dollfie's model so that the proportions are correct.

3) Mark on the clothes model where I want the seams to be.

4) Unwrap the model and export as .svg

 

Being successful at steps 3 and 4 takes practice and trial and error to get right. Depending on the geometry and where you mark your seams, you may or may not get distortion in your pattern. Keeping the model simple helps. In 3D modelling these techniques are used for creating the textures that get mapped onto the model. Typically I start with a model that I know works and make small modifications to it.

 

5) Load the .svg file into inkscape

6) Use the rulers in inkscape to scale the pattern to the right size

7) Use the 'outset' feature to create seam allowances (can google this)

8) Export pattern so it can be printed on one or more letter-size pages.

 

Lately I've doing more 3D-printing than sewing since my background is in engineering but I used this method to try my hand at some lingerie last weekend (work-in-progress):

 

I think you may have been referring to my comment in that thread? I was thinking along the lines of actual pattern drafting software, which is AutoCAD based and very expensive: http://www.designsew.com/proddetail.php?prod=DOLLWEAR_v6i

 

Wow, that's a lot cheaper than I was expecting. I would actually considering buying that if I had more time to spend on making doll clothes. At one point I was looking at professional clothes-making software but it was all in the $2000+ range.